Fifteen years ago, New York Post critic Steve Cuozzo bemoaned the “infantilization of dining” as white tablecloths — elegant, urbane — disappeared from the city’s upscale dining rooms. It was a creep ...
Il Mercato is a white-tablecloth restaurant without the white tablecloths. Or any tablecloths, for that matter. But don’t let its lack of table coverings fool you: This cozy café-wine bar is dishing ...